How Should a Dress Shirt Fit? A 6-Point Checklist

Most men wear shirts that almost fit. The shoulders are a little wide, the body a little full, the sleeves a little long. Individually these look minor; together they're the difference between looking put-together and looking like you borrowed your shirt. Here's what to check.

1. Shoulders

The shoulder seam should sit exactly at the edge of your shoulder bone. If it droops down your arm the shirt is too big; if it climbs toward your neck, it's too small. Shoulders are the one thing a tailor cannot easily alter, so get this right first.

2. Collar

Buttoned up, you should be able to slide one finger between the collar and your neck. Any more and it gapes under a tie; any less and it chokes. The collar should also hug your neck at the back instead of standing away from it.

3. Chest and body

Pinch the fabric at your side. About 5 to 8 centimetres of excess is a comfortable, clean fit. Pull more than that and the shirt will balloon when tucked in. Buttons that pull and show small X-shaped creases across the chest mean it's too tight.

4. Sleeves

With your arms relaxed at your sides, the cuff should end at the wrist bone. When you wear a jacket, about 1 to 1.5 centimetres of cuff should peek out from the sleeve.

5. Shirt length

A tucked shirt should be long enough to stay in when you raise your arms. An untucked shirt should end around mid-zip, not at your thighs.

6. Cuffs

Buttoned cuffs should be snug enough that they don't slide over your hand, but loose enough to fit a watch. If you wear a watch daily, mention it to your shirtmaker.

If three of the six points are off, no size chart will save the shirt. That's the moment to consider custom.